This video is simply amazing, and let me tell you why. Everyone has a activity or belief that they constantly think about. I have 4 things that are constantly on my mind whether I am fully engulfed in it or not. Those happen to be God, My Family, Surfing, and Politics (just to get those out on the table). Surfing has always resonated with me since I was a kid. I lost the love for it during my college year, but fell deep in love with again in my mid to late 20’s (thank you Kelsey).

Surfing has a lot to offer to someone like me. Surfing is physical, spiritual, and artistic. No two waves are the same, and depending on how you ride each and every waves is a different expression of art. You also have different equipment and style to how you want to ride a wave.

Waves are created thousands of miles away by wind. By the time they reach the shore they have been traveling 2-7 days. Getting a barrel is a glimpse into God’s view as it is the exact moment of two of earth’s greatest masses, land and water meeting. The energy combine by these masses can create a very euphoric or humbling experience. To conquer the feat of riding inside a barrel is an amazing feeling and experience. I have only had that feeling a couple of times and that glimpse is only for a split second. Once you set up, everything goes silent and a euphoric feeling comes over you. You lose all thoughts of the world around you and are one with God’s creation…

There is a saying among surfers that Billabong uses: “Only a Surfer Knows the Feeling”. This video will give you that glimpse…

Click here to view the embedded video.